by Keyvan Mashhadi for Pierre de Nishapur
"After every Esxence or Pitti Fragranze which I could not admit, I search through new perfumeries to check if any laudable house has entered the industry. There are so many listed in news column of perfume databases and it gives me a chance to evaluate their portfolio one by one. Many of them are not what we're exactly looking for, some begin very strong but on same vein of mainstream fashion of so-called niches which present over 10 irrelevant-to-each-other fragrances at once and no progress aftermath. Just few of them remain in my bucket to evaluate and YeYe is one of them that deserves a rapt attention.
The reason I often chose tiny houses lies behind their artisanal quality and free minded performance. YeYe is a homey and cozy house of perfumery based in California which bears three fragrances that I briefly open below...
Equus No 8
Equus No 8 (simply Equus) is the mind-provoking member of the house that pushes the limits of conventional compositions with a twisty smoky quality that might be merely exclusive if it was released about two years earlier before Mona di Orio Bohea Bohème and 1805 Tonnerre by Beaufort. However, Equus is not precisely the same to this nor that, it is just to give you a general vista of the context.
The fragrance unleashes with blast of aflame sulfuric entity reminiscent of a match head's combustion and the dense smoke it releases. Plus this smoke, there's a watery wood smell that gives the smoke a fat and leathery dimension that becomes prominent later. Smoke - note or accord, I'm not sure - which is more like a texture than a real part of concoction, appears like an amplifier to improve spicy side, usually in coordination with cardamom to emerge an impression of ultimate burn atmosphere which I knew first in Bohea Bohème.
Equus manifests itself as smoky, damp woody, gray brown, with sweetened leather and saffron that gives sweet nasty dimensions to leather. For it soft acrid smoke smell it veers more to masculine side but not a mere masculine fragrance. It also presents moderately on skin for about half a day.
York No 7
The beginning of York No 7 (simply York) has a tickling fresh powdery smell registered upon heliotrope, musk and iris. A vintage yet not oldy powdery accord that is perfectly presented in Frédéric Malle L'Eau d'Hiver, and less or more represented in Mona di Orio Musc and Lorenzo Villoresi Teint de Neige; both lacking iris. But not this nor that, York has a key to get apart from classical powdery femininity and it's a bright blast of grapefruit that conjures up image of an interior patio ambiance and later gives birth to mentholated musk and dusty background. This case precisely gives me the same vert mood of Balenciaga's modern chypre Blanciaga Paris; of course without chypre indications.
What I obsess about this perfume is grapefruit's egocentric performance apart but parallel to musky powdery accord. It barely shows tendency to merge with the majority but it still keeps sentimental powdery green and watery fresh like lying down on green grasses.
Sentiers de Comètes
An integrated blend of lilac and smoky musk is the integral heart of Sentiers de Comètes which unwraps with pale impression of fresh and cute springy lilac that opens gates for a fleshy but not-juicy rose. The very beginning of this delicate concoction is adorned by tonka bean and incense of base elements as much as it displays jammy orange and a hint of sugary jasmine that gives me the same sense of hedoine in MFK Baccarat Rouge 540, in tiny amount.
The composition of rose, soft jasmine, and musk would not be so identical without help of tender incense. The incense brings about a leathery mood that reminds me a pale memoir of equestrian rose of Hermès Kelly Caleche. Sentiers de Comètes has murmured projection and skin-covering sillage to ascertain a definitive air, for that I cannot precisely analyze the layers of composition."